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Washer Trouble:

Machine runs fine until spin cycle. It will spin (with
>manual intervention) under 2 conditions:
>1. lid open, no clothes loaded or

The machine should NOT spin with the lid open. The lid switch is there
to prevent it.

>2. clothes loaded and "jump started" by hand (i.e.
>push it with my hand then it kicks in on its own).

I assume with the lid open? See reply above.

>I'm thinking that it's the drive coupling. Can anyone
>confirm this or point me in the right direction?

I can confirm it is the *wrong* direction. If the motor coupling was
broken, the washer would not wash or spin, ever (except by you pushing
it all the time). The motor coupler connects the motor to the rest of
the washer's drive train. The pump should still work as it is
connected directly to the motor and will be unaffected by a motor
coupler failure.

>- it's a newer whirlpool, not sure what year

What would be most helpful is the washer's *model number*. You can
find tips for finding the model number on your appliances in the
'Repair Parts' section of my site linked below.

>only has motor and transmission, no belt

Well that narrows it down to the newer Whirlpool 'direct drive' washer
design.

Assuming it is a model with a 'neutral drain' transmissions (most
direct drive models are - but not all), here is how it's suppose to
work.

When such a washer first goes into spin, the motor turns the pump to
drain the water but the washer does *not* spin. After a short time the
timer pauses the motor which allows the neutral drain assembly inside
the transmission to 'shift' into gear. The next time the motor starts
up the washer should then spin.

On such a machine the washer not going into spin with the motor
running can be caused by the timer not pausing or the transmission's
'neutral drain' mechanism not resetting.

In the first case opening *then closing* the lid would simulate the
pause the timer should do on its own. If the timer isn't pausing, it
is likely defective and needs to be replaced. Burnt contacts inside
the timer is usually the cause of such a failure and may be the odor
you smelled previously.

If the timer is pausing or even opening *and closing* the lid does not
allow the transmission to 'shift into gear', either the transmission
needs to be replaced or the transmission has to be taken apart and the
neutral drain mechanism has to be replaced.

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