| Case Construction: Steel cases weigh more
than aluminum ones, they cost less, and they muffle the noise from components
such as hard drives better than aluminum cases do. On the other hand,
aluminum boxes tend to be more stylish, and they are certainly easier
to carry around.
Case Convenience: Even the best-looking case will seem ugly if installing
your components becomes a pain. Look for helpful features like a removable
motherboard tray, tool-less drive carriers, and multiple fan locations
for cooling the system.
TIP: Does this PC case include a power supply? Cheaper cases often come
with cut-rate power supplies that may not be up to the task of powering
a high-end PC. Some expensive cases don't come with a power supply, which
lets you choose your own. If you've added a lot of new components to your
PC, you may be overtaxing your existing power supply, so look at getting
a bigger, better one. Power supplies can cause problems--including random
crashes or even component failure--if they are asked to produce more power
than they are designed to generate. Reputable manufacturers will typically
include a chart of acceptable components.
Memory: The More, The Merrier.
Because it's an easy upgrade to perform and can significantly improve
performance, boosting a PC's RAM is one of the most popular hardware enhancements
people undertake. This 5-minute procedure can let you keep more programs
open, accelerate memory-hungry graphics programs and games dramatically,
and sharpen your PC's responsiveness. The memory modules that most recent
systems accept are 184-pin DDR DIMMs of varying speeds, such as DDR333
or DDR400; the number describes the RAM's clock speed. You'll sometimes
see memory referred to by the bandwidth it offers, such as PC2700 (DDR333)
or PC3200 (DDR400). The type you should buy depends on the motherboard
and processor you choose: For best performance, opt for the fastest type
of memory module that works with both. A new type of memory (called DDR2)
offers even speedier performance, but this can be used only on new systems
equipped with the latest Intel chip sets.
TIP: Get at least a gigabyte: Sure, you can save money by installing
less, but 1GB of RAM puts you comfortably above the point at which most
speed gains occur, and it should enable you to run the most demanding
applications and increase the speed of your system when you keep more
than one program open at a time.
Tips & Techniques For Building Your Own PC
Compiled By Our Editors
First things first. What do you need to build a computer? Believe us,
it's not as complicated as it seems. Let's start with the case. The variety
is staggering, with hundreds of styles, shapes and sizes available. We
recommend that you look closely at the features. Some gorgeous PC cases
are nightmares to work with, or are cheaply built. Get the best case you
can afford, we recommend you ask for "tool-less" case design,
which enables you to click---open, click---closed. Most cases and motherboards
use the ATX Formfactor, standardizing the sizes of the components and
all of the power connections. Speaking of power: Although many PC cases
are sold with a pre-installed power supply, check it carefully---your
power requirements may exceed the capacity of the pre-installed unit.
How do you know? Here's a quick guide:
Component Wattage Required
Motherboard 15-30
Low-End CPU 20-50
Mid To High-End CPU 40-100
RAM 7 per 128MB
PCI Add-In Card 5
Low To Mid-Range Graphics 20-60
High-End Graphics 60-100
IDE Hard Drive 10-30
Optical Drives 10-25
Do the math. You may need to purchase a higher-output power supply for
your new PC. Once you've selected a case and power supply, be sure that
you have the following items:
A set of screwdrivers (small, large, slot, Phillips), or a PC Tool Kit
An anti-static wrist strap
Needle-nosed pliers
CPU (processor)
CPU cooling fan and heat sink
Sound Card
Motherboard
One or more hard drives
Graphics card
One or more RAM DIMMs (Memory modules)
An operating system
That's basically it. And these days, anyone can build or upgrade a computer.
It's really very simple and it can save you hundreds of dollars. Why build
or upgrade your own PC? If you're short on hard-disk space Add a new drive.
Getting creamed in the latest games because they run so slowly? Time for
a new graphics board. But maybe you need a whole new system. With just
a little more technical know-how than a typical upgrade requires, you
can build a PC yourself from handpicked parts. Obviously, determining
which parts to use---and getting the RIGHT parts---is critical to successfully
building the perfect PC. To get you started on the right track, we've
assembled a guide to the main components in a PC, including recommendations
for each part (based on what you intend to do with your machine).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Building Your Own System
1. Before you dive in…
Before you start the job, you have to take inventory of your parts. It
does little good to begin your build when you don't have everything you
need. Once you've determined you have everything you need, it's time to
start! Make sure you have plenty of working room and a few hours to proceed
with minimal interruption. Please note that carpeting represents some
real dangers to your computer. The carpeted surface has the potential
to create static electricity that can fry your components. An inexpensive
antistatic wrist strap (they are often priced at less than 6 bucks) is
the perfect preventive measure if you have no alternative to working on
carpet. Remember, a bare floor is always the best place to build your
system. Now, grab hold of a good set of screwdrivers, a pair of needle-nose
pliers, and an antistatic wrist strap, and make sure you're wearing your
antistatic wrist strap (it does you no good at all if you don't wear it!)
Finally, download the latest drivers from the vendors' Web sites for each
component you'll be installing, and copy them to a CD to avoid headaches
later on; the drivers that come in product boxes are often several versions
out of date.
2. Dive in!…Installing the Motherboard
Here comes the fun part! Installing the motherboard. First, take the board
out of its packaging and put it on top of the antistatic bag it came in.
Remember, you always want to safeguard your components from potentially
hazardous static electricity. Before you secure the mobo onto the PC case,
you should install the processor, heat sink and the memory modules on
it. If you aren't sure which socket is which, or what goes where, consult
your motherboard's user manual for guidance. User manuals are extremely
helpful, easy to read and include illustrations. First, lift the lever
on the processor socket so you can install the CPU. Carefully line up
the pins and place the chip in its socket; it will fit only when oriented
the proper way. An arrow or a missing pin on one corner of the chip will
show you how to line things up. Lower the lever to lock the CPU into place.
Next, follow the manufacturer's directions to install the heat sink and
the fan that will cool the processor. If you bought an OEM CPU and a separate
heat sink, you may need to spread a thin layer of the thermal grease that
came with the heat sink over the chip to ensure proper transfer of heat
(some heat sinks come with this grease already applied). Attaching the
clip that holds the heat sink in place may require a fair amount of force.
Again, the instructions that came with the heat sink will show you how
to know whether you've fitted it correctly. Plug the fan's power connector
into the proper connector on the motherboard.
TECHNIQUE: This part can get a little tricky. But stick with it and you
will have no trouble at all. In order to install the memory modules, insert
them into the proper sockets and push down firmly but evenly until the
clips on both sides of the socket pop into place. If your motherboard
supports dual-channel memory, consult the user manual to determine which
pairs of RAM sockets you should use. The motherboard and the CPU are the
brain and nerve center of your PC, so selecting these components might
just be the most important decision you'll make.
TIP: Choose the processor first: Despite running at slower clock speeds
than their Intel-based rivals, AMD-based systems have maintained a significant
performance lead in documented benchmark testing for a while now. At the
high end, Athlon 64 FX CPUs are the fastest around. There are positive
and negatives to each CPU, so do a thorough investigation before making
your buying decision. Remember, an informed buyer has a much higher probability
of being a satisfied one.
TIP: Choose the motherboard after selecting the processor: The processor
you choose usually determines which motherboard you select: Motherboards
are designed to work with specific CPUs, indicated by the type of socket
that the processor fits into. Socket A, Socket 939, and Socket 940 are
designed to work with Athlon processors, while Socket 478 and the new
LGA socket 775 are for Intel CPUs. Many dealers offer bundles consisting
of a processor, a motherboard, and memory; these can be a good way to
save some money. The system chip set (the chips that pass data between
the peripherals and the CPU) is the other component that differs among
motherboards; it determines which integrated components (graphics, sound,
Ethernet, etc.) will be included. Though integrated graphics aren't generally
as good as dedicated cards, they're usually adequate for simple tasks.
3. Placing the Motherboard into YourCase
First, a word about cases. The right one can make working with your system
a dream, but picking the wrong one will come back to haunt you. Though
you can find a case plus power supply for less than $50, we recommend
that you invest a bit more to obtain a case that will last through many
upgrades and that you'll enjoy looking at.
Case Formfactor: Most cases and motherboards use the ATX form factor--a
set of design standards that specify things such as the size of the motherboard
and the connectors on the power supply. It's critical that your motherboard
match the form factor of your case. Be aware of other standards--for example,
Shuttle-style cube-shaped systems that come with their own custom motherboard.
Check carefully and note the formfactor when shopping.
Case Construction: Steel cases weigh more than aluminum ones, they cost
less, and they muffle the noise from components such as hard drives better
than aluminum cases do. On the other hand, aluminum boxes tend to be more
stylish, and they are certainly easier to carry around.
Case Convenience: Even the best-looking case will seem ugly if installing
your components becomes a pain. Look for helpful features like a removable
motherboard tray, tool-less drive carriers, and multiple fan locations
for cooling the system.
TIP: Does this PC case include a power supply? Cheaper cases often come
with cut-rate power supplies that may not be up to the task of powering
a high-end PC. Some expensive cases don't come with a power supply, which
lets you choose your own. If you've added a lot of new components to your
PC, you may be overtaxing your existing power supply, so look at getting
a bigger, better one. Power supplies can cause problems--including random
crashes or even component failure--if they are asked to produce more power
than they are designed to generate. Reputable manufacturers will typically
include a chart of acceptable components.
Memory: The More, The Merrier.
Because it's an easy upgrade to perform and can significantly improve
performance, boosting a PC's RAM is one of the most popular hardware enhancements
people undertake. This 5-minute procedure can let you keep more programs
open, accelerate memory-hungry graphics programs and games dramatically,
and sharpen your PC's responsiveness. The memory modules that most recent
systems accept are 184-pin DDR DIMMs of varying speeds, such as DDR333
or DDR400; the number describes the RAM's clock speed. You'll sometimes
see memory referred to by the bandwidth it offers, such as PC2700 (DDR333)
or PC3200 (DDR400). The type you should buy depends on the motherboard
and processor you choose: For best performance, opt for the fastest type
of memory module that works with both. A new type of memory (called DDR2)
offers even speedier performance, but this can be used only on new systems
equipped with the latest Intel chip sets.
TIP: Get at least a gigabyte: Sure, you can save money by installing
less, but 1GB of RAM puts you comfortably above the point at which most
speed gains occur, and it should enable you to run the most demanding
applications and increase the speed of your system when you keep more
than one program open at a time.
TIP: Opt for dual-channel if possible: If your motherboard supports it,
use dual-channel memory. This type of memory boosts performance by increasing
the speed at which data can be read and written. But for it to work, you
have to install matched RAM modules in pairs. Some early dual-channel
boards came with only three RAM sockets. If two of those sockets are already
filled, you must either upgrade with a single DIMM (and lose some performance)
or replace your two existing DIMMs.
TECHNIQUE: Some PC cases have a removable motherboard tray. If yours
does, remove the screws holding it in place and pull it out of the case.
Note the pattern of the holes in your motherboard, and screw brass standoffs
into the motherboard tray or into the PC case in the correct locations.
Check the layout of the sockets on the motherboard, and confirm that the
ports on your motherboard's back panel match the holes on the I/O shield
that is installed in your case. If necessary, remove the old I/O shield
by tapping it firmly a few times with the butt-end of a screwdriver, and
then replace it with the shield that came with the new motherboard.
TECHNIQUE: Carefully position the motherboard on top of the brass standoffs,
line up all the holes, and use the screws that accompanied the case to
fasten down the motherboard. If you are using a removable tray in your
system, slide the tray and motherboard back into the case and then secure
the tray. |
| Graphics boards have become the high fashion of computing.
As new, super fast graphics chips emerge every six months, trendy techsters
don't want to get caught checking out the latest 3D game with a board that's
"so last season." But you needn't spend a fortune to get good
performance.
TIP: Don't pay for features you don't need: At the high end ATI and nVidia
have been flirting with designer pricing, as loaded enthusiast parts go
for upward of $500. At those prices, only the most hard-core gamers will
pay to keep up with the latest styles; but even if your needs are relatively
modest, you can easily find an affordable board that boosts your PC's
3D graphics speed. If you're doing some light photo-editing, gaming or
just surging the web, a $50 or $75 video card is more than adequate. Look
for models that have 64MB or 128MB of dedicated memory.
TIP: Make sure you get the features you want: Most graphics boards today
let you connect a second display to your PC. If you'd like to use your
PC to record TV, a board with an integrated TV tuner (like the ATI All-In-Wonder
line) is a good choice. EVGA (www.evga.com) makes a competing set of TV
tuner-equipped graphics boards based on nVidia's Personal Cinema chip
set.
TIP: PCI Express--the next generation of video display: The latest graphics
cards now use PCI Express, an improved version of the AGP slot on most
PCs. Our tests of new PCI Express graphics cards detected no significant
speed gains as a result of upgrading from AGP to PCI Express, though that
will surely change as graphics chip speeds increase and as games get more
complex.
Gamers Agree: Don't Skimp On The Video Card.
An integrated graphics processor is like a suit bought at Wal-Mart: It
does the job, but it doesn't look great. The PC World Test Center tested
a PC with integrated graphics on a number of 3D games, and found them
virtually unplayable. But when we installed a $220 Radeon 9800 Pro graphics
card, the games ran much faster. This upgrade isn't difficult. First,
find out who makes the graphics chip you already use: Right-click your
desktop, choose Properties, and select the Settings tab. Your graphics
board will be listed under 'Display'. All graphics cards based on chips
from NVidia now use the same set of drivers, so if you're upgrading from
one NVidia-based card to another, download and install the latest NVidia
drivers. The same is true for ATI-based boards. If your new card switches
graphics chip brands, you should uninstall the graphics drivers before
you upgrade.
Shut down your PC, unplug it, and open the case. Remove the old graphics
board (if any), insert the new board into its slot, and secure it with
a screw. Plug your PC back in, turn it on, and follow the manufacturer's
directions to set up the new graphics board.
|
| When the drives are installed, connect power and data cables
to each one. Parallel ATA drives use wide, flat data cables that can be
installed only in the correct way. Floppy drives use a similar but smaller
cable; SATA drives use a thin, 1cm-wide data cable. SATA drives use a new
type of power connector that many power supplies don't come with. Fortunately,
many motherboards ship with adapters for converting a standard four-pin
power connector to a SATA power connector. Some drives ship with both the
older connector and the SATA power connector. In that case, use one power
connector or the other, but not both. The capacity of hard drives continues
to increase: You can now hold 400GB of data on a single drive, which is
great news for digital media pack rats and video editors. But though you
don't have to compromise on the drive's size, you still have a few choices
to make when picking a hard disk.
Upgrade Option: RAID RAID, which stands for Redundant Array of Independent
Disks, lets you use multiple hard drives to boost disk speed or to keep
a mirrored backup of your data in case a drive fails. Either setup requires
multiple identical drives, and configuring them calls for a little mental
gymnastics. An increasing number of systems on our Top 15 Desktop PCs
chart use a configuration called RAID 0, which can significantly increase
system speeds for data reading and writing. If you would like to try it,
first select a pair of drives that match the storage capacity you want.
With 120GB hard drives available for under $90 and with RAID support included
on most new motherboards, RAID can be a great value.
Upgrade Option: Serial ATA; Even bargain-priced motherboards now include
SATA support, and going with an SATA drive will make your system easier
to set up and your drive simpler to move to a future PC when the time
comes. If you're looking to boost the storage capacity of an older PC,
the answer gets more complex: To use a SATA drive, you must add a SATA
controller card. Many SATA controller cards give you the option of adding
RAID support to your system, too. Is it worth it? Well, if you do a great
many tasks that involve a lot of disk access (such as video editing),
it can be. But otherwise, just add a second parallel ATA drive.
Transferring Your Data
When you add a new hard drive to an older PC, it's almost always faster
than the drive already in use. But simply installing the new drive on
your PC will strand your OS on the slower drive, forfeiting some benefits
of upgrading. Make sure you use the new, faster, hard drive as your boot
drive. Retail hard-drive upgrade kits usually come with software that
you can use to clone your existing drive to the new one, making the faster
drive your boot drive. But before you do this, pause and consider whether
it may be time to start over. Over time Windows fills up with discarded
files, drivers, and other crud. Adding a hard drive can be just the excuse
you need to reinstall Windows from the system restore CD that came with
your PC.
CD, CD-RW And DVD
Whether you upgrade or build a new PC, adding a fast optical drive can
increase its flexibility. And even if you're on a budget, drives that
read and burn any format under the sun won't break the bank.
TIP: Get An "All-In-One" Drive: No need to worry about whether
your drive supports DVD+RW or DVD-RW-for around $90 you can get an 8X DVD
combination drive that writes to all major formats of rewritable DVD. Burn
DVD+R and -R discs at 8X, both rewritable DVD formats at 4X, CD-Rs at 40X,
and CD-RWs at 24X. You'd save only about $40 by going with a simple CD-RW/DVD-ROM
combo drive, so you get more value with a DVD burner that does it all.
TIP: Burn Speed Even no-longer-top-of-the-line 8X DVD burners can write
an entire disc in less than 10 minutes, and CD burning speeds these days
are sufficiently fast at the upper end that the difference between 48X
and 52X is negligible. Consequently, if you're on a budget, there's no
reason to pay a premium for a 12X or 16X DVD burner or to insist on buying
the fastest CD-RW drive you can find.
TIP: Do not use bulky "Ribbon" cables: The flat, wide ribbon
cables that Parallel ATA drives use to carry data can restrict airflow
inside your case, robbing your system of valuable cooling; and functionality
aside, they're just plain ugly. Rounded data cables available at your
local PC store look much nicer, and they don't impede airflow.
TIP: The Storage Secret: Dual-Layer DVD "DL" What's 12 centimeters
in diameter and can hold 8.5GB of data? A dual-layer DVD disc, that's
what. Most stand-alone DVD players can play the dual-layer discs that
these drives burn, boosting the amount of video that will fit on one disc.
You'll pay a small price premium for early dual-layer drives, however,
and compatible media may be hard to find at first. In addition, writing
to dual-layer discs is slower than writing to single-layer ones--2.4X
for the former, as opposed to 8X, 12X, or 16X for the latter. We recommend
waiting until the prices of drives and media fall before switching to
dual-layer unless you need the extra storage space.
TIP: One Cable, Two Drives: So-Called "Master And Slave."
Adding a drive to an older PC isn't always a question of simply plugging
it in. Most older PCs use parallel ATA technology, where two drives share
one cable (this is referred to as a channel; most PCs come with at least
two IDE channels for a maximum of four drives). Setting a jumper designates
each drive as either a master or a slave, which permits a single cable
to connect two drives to one IDE channel. The jumper settings for each
designation are usually labeled on the drive itself. A few simple rules
should guide your configuration choices. If possible, each drive should
sit on its own IDE channel configured as a master drive. If you have two
drives on one channel, always make the faster drive the master drive.
For example, suppose that you wanted to add a second hard drive and a
DVD burner to a PC equipped with one hard drive and one CD-RW drive. In
that case, you would want to set the new, faster hard drive as master
on the primary IDE channel. Your older hard drive should be the slave
drive on the primary channel, with the two optical drives as master and
slave on the secondary channel.
|
8. Turn It On (and check your PC Set up)
Having fun yet? Of course you are. It's time to get on with the business
of turning on your system and checking out your PC set up. So plug in the
keyboard, mouse, and monitor to the appropriate ports on the back of the
PC. Plug the power cord back in, and turn the machine on. Enter your PC's
BIOS setup screen by pressing the indicated key (often Delete) as the machine
boots. Menu options will vary from board to board, but they share the same
general categories. Set the date and time, and then look for a setting that
deals with PC health status and monitoring. That choice should bring up
a screen showing processor and case temperature. Watch the processor temperature
for a few minutes. It should stabilize at a level between 30°C and 50°C.
If it keeps increasing, your heat sink probably isn't installed properly.
Power down and check to see whether the heat sink is securely attached and
making good contact with the processor. Next, find the section of the BIOS
setup that determines the order in which your machine checks drives and
devices for one it can boot from. Set CD-ROM to the highest priority so
that your machine will boot from the Windows installation CD.
9. Installing the Operating System
Now you are just two simple steps away from running your very own custom-built
personal computer. All that's left is to install the operating system
and then update your drivers and install the programs. First, place the
Windows installation CD in your optical drive, reboot the PC, and allow
the system to boot off the disc. Windows setup should begin. Early in
the process, Windows will ask you whether you need to install a third-party
SCSI or RAID driver. If you're using a RAID setup, press F6 when this
message appears; then insert the floppy containing the appropriate driver
when it is requested. If your machine hangs while installing Windows,
there may be a problem with one of the components. Try removing everything
except the core components (motherboard, processor, one memory module,
and hard drives); then, once you've successfully installed Windows, begin
reinstalling each component one by one to isolate the source of the problem.
10. Last, But NOT Least: Update Drivers and Install Programs
Once you've got Windows up and running, the last step in this exciting,
build-it-your-self process is to update your hardware drivers. This is
not an optional procedure - you MUST do it. Insert the CD with the latest
drivers (from step 1) and install them, starting with those for the motherboard
and graphics card and then moving on to less critical ones like mouse
and sound card drivers. (Windows comes with basic drivers to get you up
and running.) Several reboots later, you should have a shiny new PC! Next,
get your network connection up and running, install a firewall, and download
the latest Windows patches. Finally, make sure that everything runs okay,
and then back up your system. That way you'll have a clean, current image
of Windows to go back to if serious trouble arises in the future.You're
installing. If these steps check out and you're still experiencing spontaneous
reboots, your problem may be one of the following situations.
Overclocking: We do not recommend overclocking. Memory Timing: The fix?
Go into your BIOS and set your memory on "Auto" or at a more
conservative setting and see if the reboot problem goes away. Outdated
BIOS: Make sure you have the latest BIOS for your board. You can determine
if your CPU is supported by browsing the BIOS updates of the motherboard's
manufacturer. If you're running a Pentium 4 Extreme Edition and notice
that it's only supported with the latest BIOS updates, you may have located
the problem! Inadequate Power: If you've made significant component upgrades---with
the exception of the power supply---your power supply may be overstressed
or failing due to heat or age. Finally, if you've migrated your OS and
other files from machine to machine to machine, it may be time for a clean
install.
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